Narvik Beret

Design: Slouchy Beret, based on Esme - free pattern available here 

Designer: Amy Pickard, modified by me

Yarn: Wendy Narvik(discontinued)

Fibre: 85% acrylic, 5.5% mohair, 5.5% wool, 4% polyester.

Colour: Polar (644)

Needles: 5mm and 6mm

I bought a couple of balls of this yarn in Atkinson's sale for the princely sum of £0.69 per ball. I don't know why - it's kind of a blue base with yellow and orange running through it. I think I meant it for a pair of mitts for The Hermit, but he kind of recoiled ...

I was going on a trip to Manchester and needed something on the needles, so I thought I'd try this beret again, but make a narrower brim - and if it didn't work, then I wasn't really losing anything yarn wise, even if it ended up in the bin...

But it worked. And worked well. And I had about 20 feet of yarn left from the 100g I'd purchased by the time I'd finished! This fabric has a nice drape to it and although blue isn't my colour, the yellow goes with my favourite winter jacket...

Garter Rib Hotwater Bottle Cover - Free Pattern!

 

Design: Garter Rib Hotwater Bottle Cover

Designer: Me - free design below

Yarn: Stylecraft Life Chunky

Colour: Rose (2301)

Fibre: 75% acrylic, 25% wool

Needles: 4.50mm

My sister asked for a gift card for her favourite clothes store for Christmas, and I was more than happy to get that for her. But you can't have nothing to open on Christmas Day, and so I rustled up this little hotwater bottle cover, as my sister is one of the chilliest people I know - she has been known to wear flannel pyjamas in August! 

My niece, The Tot, is coveting this gift - she keeps asking my sister if she can have it! So it's certainly a hit with one member of the family!

 

Garter Rib Hotwater Bottle Cover

You will need:

100g of chunky yarn - I used Stylecraft Life Chunky, which is 162yds/148m

double pointed needles or short circulars - I used 4.50mm, but I knit slightly loosely, you may want tomove up to 5.00mm or 5.50mm

crochet hook - 4.50mm approx to make cord - or a length of ribbon

blunt ended needle for sewing up.

stitch marker

large hotwater bottle

Instructions:

Body:

Cast on 56 stitches, and join in a circle, being careful not to twist. Use stitch marker to indicate beginning of row.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: *Knit 2, Purl 2, repeat from * to end of round

Rows 1-2 form pattern repeat.

Repeat pattern until you've reached the shoulder of the hotwater bottle - mine needed 64 rows. If you haven't finished on a knit row, then knit one row. This sets up the eyelet row and frill.

Eyelets and frill:

Row 1: *Knit 2, Yarn Over, Purl 2, Yarn Over, repeat from * to end of round

Row 2: *Knit 2, Knit 2 together, Knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of round

Row 3: *Knit 2, Purl 2, repeat from * to end of round

Row 4: Knit

Row 5: *Knit 2, Purl 2, repeat from * to end of round

Row 6: Knit

Row 7: *Knit 2, Purl 2, repeat from * to end of round

Row 8: Knit

Cast off - this can be done knitwise or in rib.

Darn in end at top. Sew bottom seam using a mattress stitch.

Make tie cord by crocheting a chain about 50cm (20 inches) in length. Weave through the eyelet holes. Insert hotwater bottle and tie cord to secure.

Mini Cable Rib Hotwater Bottle Cover - Free Pattern!

Designer: Mini Cable Rib Hotwater Bottle Cover

Designer: me! - pattern below

Yarn: Stylecraft Life Chunky

Colour: Raspberry Marl (2347)

Fibre: 75% acrylic, 25% wool

Needles: UK7 (4.5mm)

I'm posting this out of order of making, as this was actually the third hotwater bottle cover I knitted for Christmas gifts. This was one I made for my mum, as a bit of a stocking filler. The yarn is nice and squooshy and very good value. The 25% wool makes it nice and soft and will insulate the hottle nicely, and the acrylic will make it durable and washable.

My mum used to knit hotwater bottle covers for us when we were children, it's nice to turn the tables!

Mini Cable Rib Hotwater Bottle Cover

You will need:

100g of chunky yarn - I used Stylecraft Life Chunky, which is 162yds/148m

double pointed needles or short circulars - I used 4.50mm, but I knit slightly loosely, you may want tomove up to 5.00mm or 5.50mm

crochet hook - 4.50mm approx to make cord - or a length of ribbon

blunt ended needle for sewing up.

stitch marker

large hotwater bottle

Instructions:

Body:

Cast on 56 stitches, and join in a circle, being careful not to twist. Use stitch marker to indicate beginning of row.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: *Knit 2, Purl 2, repeat from * to end of round

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: *Knit 2 together, don't slip the stitches from the needle but insert needle between the stitches and knit 1, Purl 2, repeat from * to end of round

Rows 1-4 form pattern repeat.

Repeat pattern until you've reached the shoulder of the hotwater bottle - mine needed 64 rows. If you haven't finished on a knit row, then knit one row. This sets up the eyelet row and frill.

Eyelets and frill:

Row 1: *Knit 2, Yarn Over, Purl 2, Yarn Over, repeat from * to end of round

Row 2: *Knit 2, Knit 2 together, Knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of round

Row 3: *Knit 2, Purl 2, repeat from * to end of round

Row 4: Knit

Row 5: *Knit 2 together, don't slip the stitches from the needle but insert needle between the stitches and knit 1, Purl 2, repeat from * to end of round

Row 6: Knit

Row 7: *Knit 2, Purl 2, repeat from * to end of round

Row 8: Knit

Cast off - this can be done knitwise or in rib.

Darn in end at top. Sew bottom seam using a mattress stitch.

Make tie cord by crocheting a chain about 50cm (20 inches) in length. Weave through the eyelet holes. Insert hotwater bottle and tie cord to secure.

Pink Sparkly Legwarmers

Design: Little Legwarmers

Designer: me - such as the design is!

Yarn: Creative Yarns Rainbow Multi Glitz Double Knitting 

Fibre: 97% acrylic, 3% metallic 

Colour: 1084

Needles: 3.75mm DPN and small circular

These are a Christmas gift, but I'm safe posting about this as the recipient is only three (and a half! most important...) and can't (quite) read my blog.

My niece, The Tot, has recently started ballet lessons - you can see her in her 'uniform' above - and is also in that 'pink princess' stage little girls seem to go through. We don't know where she gets it from, as none of the family have exactly been encouraging it, but you've got to make a little girl happy, haven't you? And how better to do that than combine her favourite colours with some sparkle in a pair of 'proper dancer's' accessories?

The photo doesn't show you the full horror effect. The pink is very lurid, not quite day-glo but nearly, and running all the way through the yarn is a strand of silver sparkle. The fair isle section is fuchsia and white. All I'm going to say is that whilst these would have made an ideal bus project, I wasn't going to be seen knitting this stuff in public...

It was quite fun to think I'd seen this yarn as a sample when we'd been to the Creative Yarn warehouse in the summer though!

The hardest part of knitting these was juggling with the metal DPNS, so I switched to a 16" circular and progress was quicker, although I had to keep shoving stitches around.

If you'd like to make your own budding ballerina a pair of legwarmers, you will need:

Little Legwarmers - for little legs

(age 3-4 approx) (pattern especially for Barb M!)

100g double knitting yarn - you won't use all the ball, but having extra will give you chance to lengthen the legs

4mm double pointed needles or small (16"/40cm) circular needle - I used 3.75mm because I knit slightly loosely. Tension isn't wildly important but you don't want too loose a fabric If you want to knit straight, then a pair of 4mm ordinary needles needed.

yarn needle

Cast on 36 stitches loosely - or use a 5mm needle

Divide stitches over  double pointed needles and join in the round, being careful not to twist stitches (or use a small circular needle)

Work knit 2, purl 2 rib for 16 rows

Knit 64 rows

Work knit 2, purl 2 rib for 6 row

Cast off loosely in rib

Darn in ends.

If you wanted to knit these in the flat and seam, then:

Cast on 38 stitches loosely - or use a 5mm needle

Row 1: knit 2, purl 2 to end, ending with knit 2

Row 2: purl 2, knit 2 to end, ending with purl 2

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven more times

Row 17: knit

Row 18: purl

Repeat Rows 17 and 18 31 more times

Row 81: knit 2, purl 2 to end, ending with knit 2

Row 82: purl 2, knit 2 to end, ending with purl 2

Repeat Rows 81 and 82 twice more

Cast off loosely in rib.

Seam using a mattress seam. There is a one stitch seam allowance.

Cable Fingerless Mitts

Design: Cable Fingerless Mitts
Designer: Me! It's a free pattern too...
Yarn: James C Brett Marble Chunky
Needles: 4.5mm

This third pair of fingerless mitts was made for the Hermit, to go with his stupendously long scarf. This was the last incarnation of the pattern, and the one I was most happy with, so I wrote it up and offered it as a freebie here.

Cable Scarf - Free Pattern Here :o)

Design: Cable Scarf
Designer: Various sources gave inspiration for the pattern, below
Yarn: Stylecraft Life Chunky, Cream 2305. 75% Acrylic, 25% Wool
Needles: 5.5mm

This was knitted to go with the mitts below for my sister for Christmas. Fortunately, the length was a nice length as I just used the yarn left over from the mitts with another 100g ball. The yarn is pretty nice for a cheapo - the 25% wool gives it a good texture and loft.

Edited to add: If you feel so inclined, a donation to the MS Trust for this pattern would be appreciated. Pennies will do - and you can make payment via the link in my sidebar or by clicking here.

Chunky Cable Scarf

(edited 25/12/09 to correct typo and to expand instructions a little)

You will need:

• about 150g of chunky yarn, depending how long you want the scarf - I've used the James Brett Marble Chunky and Stylecraft Chunky with good results. One full 200g ball of Marble Chunky made an over 9ft long scarf...
• a pair of knitting needles. Tension isn't important - I've used 5.5mm and 6.5mm needles for these scarfs, but bear in mind I knit loosely.
• a cable needle

Abbreviations:

K = knit
P = purl
C8F = cable 8 forward (slip 4 stitches onto a cable needle and hold in front of work, K4 then K4 from cable needle)


Cast on 24 stitches

K 8 rows

Start pattern:
Row 1: K4, P4, K8, P4, K4
Row 2: K8, P8, K8
Row 3: K4, P4, K8, P4, K4
Row 4: K8, P8, K8
Row 5: K4, P4, K8, P4, K4
Row 6: K8, P8, K8
Row 7: K4, P4, K8, P4, K4
Row 8: K8, P8, K8
Row 9: K4, P4, K8, P4, K4
Row 10: K8, P8, K8
Row 11: K4, P4, C8F, P4, K4
Row 12: K8, P8, K8

Repeat these 12 rows until scarf is at required length, or you're running out of yarn. If you are a bit of a perfectionist, you might want to end on a Row 10 so that the scarf is symmetrical ...

K8 rows

Cast off

Darn in ends. Block as the garter stitch border has a tendency to fold in.

This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may be sold on a small scale basis such as on Etsy or at craft sales. Sales for charity are positively encouraged! This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Please direct people to this blog rather than forwarding the pattern, thank you! Copyright 2009 N M Wray

Cable Gloves - Free Pattern Here :o)

Design: Chunky Cabled Fingerless Mitts:
Pattern: Available below, I adapted it from a number of sources
Yarn: Stylecraft Life Chunky, in cream
Needles: 4mm double pointed

These were a Christmas gift to my sister. I had originally planned to make her some plain mitts with a different yarn I'd picked up, to go with her new red coat, but on knitting, I decided they really weren't her style, and went with something a little more classic.

I had to work with a number of patterns, as none were exactly right - many 'handwarmer' patterns seem to me to be very short in the wrist and/or the palm, or some were too big - a family trait for the entire family, whether blood or married in, are small hands. So, I came up with this pattern and I've made myself a pair too, in a different yarn, as well as the plain version.

Edited to add: If you feel so inclined, a donation to the MS Trust for this pattern would be appreciated. Pennies will do - and you can make payment via the link in my sidebar or by clicking here.

Chunky Cabled Fingerless Mitts

You will need:

• about 60/70g of chunky yarn - I've used the James Brett Marble Chunky and Stylecraft Chunky with good results
• 4 double pointed needles - I use 4mm BUT I do knit loosely, and I have small hands. I would suggest 4.5mm or 5mm (the pattern I have adapted these from used US Size 8, which are equivalent to 5mm)
• a cable needle
  
• a small spare needle (a V shaped cable needle is ideal) or some waste yarn

Abbreviations:

K = knit
P = purl
M1 = make one by picking up the loop between stitches and twisting it as you knit
C6F = cable 6 forward (slip 3 stitches onto a cable needle and hold in front of work, K3 then K3 from cable needle)

Left Hand:

Cast on 30 stitches and distribute evenly across 3 needles. I use a cable cast on, to give a little elasticity. Join without twisting.

Rows 1-10: *K1, P1 repeat from * to end
Rows 11-16: K10, P2, K6, P2, K10
Row 17: K10, P2, C6F, P2, K10
Rows 18-22: K10, P2, K6, P2, K10
Row 23: K4, M1, K2, M1, K4, P2, C6F, P2, K10 (this is the start of the thumb gusset)
Row 24: K12, P2, K6, P2, K10
Row 25: K4, M1, K4, M1, K4, P2, K6, P2, K10
Row 26: K14, P2, K6, P2, K10
Row 27: K4, M1, K6, M1, K6, P2, K6, P2, K10
Row 28: K16, P2, K6, P2, K10
Row 29: K4, M1, K8, M1, K4, P2, C6F, P2, K10
Row 30: K18, P2, K6, P2, K10
Row 31: K4, M1, K10, M1, K4, P2, K6, P2, K10
Row 32: K5, move 10 stitches to waste yarn or spare needle, K5, P2, K6, P2, K10
Rows 33-34: K10, P2, K6, P2, K10
Row 35: K10, P2, C6F, P2, K10
Row 36-37: K10, P2, K6, P2, K10
Rows 38-43: *K1, P1 repeat from * to end
Cast off. I cast off knitwise, but you may want to cast off in rib.

Thumb: Join in yarn. K5 stitches onto one DPN, and K5 onto another. With third needle, pick up and K 4 stitches evenly across the gap (14 stitches). K2 rounds. Work 2 rounds in K1, P1 rib then cast off. Try the mitt on, because you can darn your ends in and tighten up the thumb gusset M1s at the same time if holes appear and you need to :o)

Right hand:

Cast on 30 stitches and distribute evenly across 3 needles.

Rows 1-10: *K1, P1 repeat from * to end
Rows 11-16: P2, K6, P2, K20
Row 17: P2, C6F, P2, K20
Rows 18-22: P2, K6, P2, K20
Row 23: P2, C6F, P2, K4, M1, K2, M1, K14 (this is the start of the thumb gusset)
Row 24: P2, K6, P2, K22
Row 25: P2, K6, P2, K4, M1, K4, M1, K14
Row 26: P2, K6, P2, K24
Row 27: P2, K6, P2, K4, M1, K6, M1, K14
Row 28: P2, K6, P2, K26
Row 29: P2, C6F, P2, K4, M1, K8, M1, K14
Row 30: P2, K6, P2, K28
Row 31: P2, K6, P2, K4, M1, K10, M1, K14
Row 32: P2, K6, P2, K5, move 10 stitches to waste yarn or spare needle, K15
Rows 33-34: P2, K6, P2, K20
Row 35: P2, C6F, P2, K20
Row 36-37: P2, K6, P2, K20
Rows 38-43: *K1, P1 repeat from * to end
Cast off.

Thumb: Work as for left hand.

This pattern is offered for personal, non-commercial use only. Items made from this pattern may be sold on a small scale basis such as on Etsy or at craft sales. Sales for charity are positively encouraged! This pattern and the text and photos contained within, may not be copied or reproduced for any purpose other than personal use. Please direct people to this blog rather than forwarding the pattern, thank you! Copyright 2009 N M Wray